I am really having an amazing time on my return to Bangkok. When I first got here 2 months ago I was acclimating and trying to adjust to the time difference. I hit the big Tourist attractions first and was a little disenchanted by the crowds; I did not have my traveling big girl pants on yet.
On my return to Bangkok this time my Traveling pants are well worn in and comfortable. My perspective is so much broader. My travels through the rest of the country has connected me with the melting pot that Bangkok is. It is like a cross between San Fransisco and New York City. It is hip and laid back and at the same time the underbelly is dirty and mean. The cats are loved and fed but filthy. The garbage is piling up but garlands of marigolds hang above from trees. The homeless are dirty and usually drunk but always have food and water in front of them.
I am staying in the first place I stayed in when I arrived. But instead of a private room I am staying in the female hostel. The hostel costs $10 a night and I am stretching my money. This is an all female hostel and the dormitory I am staying in is a 6 person bunk style. I have a lower bunk with linens, multiple outlets, a reading light and curtain. There is storage under the bunk and a locker box to lock stuff up. We have a community kitchen and fridge which is so useful. We share a large bathroom similar to what you would have in a gym. A washer and dryer are an added bonus.
Staying in hostels is a great way to connect with the traveling community, swap stories, suggestions and save a little money to later splurge on something else. Most of the people staying are in their 20’s and 30’s; I am usually by far the oldest and this does not bother me. It is so great to hear what these women are doing and where they are from. The opportunities that lay ahead. I find myself rejoicing in their journeys rather than wishing I was a young traveler again. I am so very happy with the experience and knowledge I have and am grateful to still be traveling.
The biggest complaint people have about the hostel is its location. Reviews have commented that it is in a bad neighborhood. I did not feel this way. We were in the middle of a spiders web of colorful, dingy, full of life alleyways. Yes the alleys stink a bit and are not the cleanest but the people are so kind. Some of the filth is from everyone lovingly putting out food for the cats and it gets left for a couple extra too many days. But, I notice someone comes around and picks up the mess periodically.
We are on the outskirts of Chinatown and the Universities; which I think makes a great location for exploration. I do not know how many kilometers I have walked in Bangkok but it has been a lot. I get up early and take advantage of the cooler temps and all the bustling morning markets. I pick a destination on some side of the city and meander my way through different hoods and markets, temples, museums, street art, tuk-tuk graveyards, parks and impressive modern malls.
When I am not walking I am taking cheap transportation in the form of Grab scooter rides. You plug into the Grab app where you want to go and it tells you how much it will cost and how long it will take for pickup. I hop on the back of the bike and zip through the city getting their faster than any other form of transportation; like most cities there is a lot of traffic.
If I had not experienced riding a bike myself I would not be comfortable with the winding in and out of traffic. I think of the 5 D’s of dodgeball… Dodge, Duck, Dip, Dive, and Dodge. ( yes, from a movie ) As the traffic is slowly moving the scooters are picking there way to the front of the line; in front of, behind, on the side of cars and trucks. You have to hold your knees in so you don’t loose your knee caps. And the driver uses this back and forth movement of his handlebars to prevent knocking mirrors with other cars.
There is an art to riding on the back of a moped and I do not possess this talent. I grab the handle behind me with both hands and hang on. The locals just sit on the back hanging onto bags, purses, and children without any firm contact with the bike and driver. Women ride side saddle with one foot on the side peg holding their skirt down and their hair up at the same time. I feel like I am going to fly off the bike. One of my rides was across the city to the Harley dealership. I thought it was hysterical pulling up on a 125 Honda Arrow hanging on for dear life.
I went to the dealership to purchase a poker chip. Every dealership sells poker chips with their location and logo printed on the chip. They told me they did not sell chips because it was illegal. Gambling is illegal and they sell pins that look like poker chips. This made sense because I recently watched an English movie on TV and noticed that they blur out all cigarettes, guns, gore, and poker chips. It was a mob movie so you can imagine how much blurring was going on.
For not being a city girl, I have completely fallen in love with Bangkok. The different parts of the city; Chinatown, little India, the Gem District, the fancy malls, tent city, and floating villages. All of your senses are firing at once; the smell of jasmine intertwining with ginger and used motor oil. The blending together of Buddhism and Hinduism. The Mosques, Temples, and churches. The intertwining connection of all these people from different backgrounds looking to eek out the best life they can. All wanting the same thing; to be happy and provide for their families.
I made Thailand my home for the last 7 weeks and am preparing to return back to the States to my roots. It is to soon to truly understand the impact this trip has had but I do know it has allowed me to be a witness to my vulnerabilities and strengths. To make connections from the heart without the spoken word and to push through the dark corners when I felt unseen and alone. I was brave and moved through fear to be able to better understand myself and others in the unfamiliar. I immersed myself in a culture that now has become familiar, and I bring it home with me.
Eating my last breakfast of Mango and Sticky rice and drinking my last fresh coconut I reflect on my gratitude for Thailand and its people. Heading to the airport I stay very present and have mixed feelings. On the runway before I walk up the stairs to the plane I take a big inhale and tilt my face to the sun and pause. Thailand accepts my gratitude and bows with humility and reverence. We understand each other. I am leaving one home to return to another.
